Day 20: Where’s the cake?

Kehl to Kirnbach (64km)

When I decided to do this trip and specifically when I gaily threw in this third stage, I had completely passed over the fact that stage 4 starts at the source of a long river, therefore it must be at the top of a large hill. Looking at the next two days’ elevation profile, I was no longer ignorant to this fact. I planned the final two days accordingly, today would be a short day that would take me into the Black Forest and then tomorrow would be the slog up the final section of the mountain and into Donaueschingen.

Today would only be a 60km cycle although it would be uphill the whole way, gradual for the majority before a steep climb to finish. The first 40km were an absolute joy, the imposing Black Forest was immediately visible after leaving Kehl and despite getting ominously closer with every pedal, the gradient remained unchained. At one stage I even began to question whether the famed German engineering had somehow created a road that rose over 1000m high, without the feeling of ever actually climbing. Once again, the roads were excellent, a mixture of bike paths and smaller roads. One longer section consisted of a small road that ran parallel to a larger road, cars were permitted on either, but the presence of the large road, in essence turned the smaller one into a cycle path without pedestrians.

Riding was so good that I briefly considered abandoning my camping plans for the night and continuing onto Donaueschingen. These plans were quickly cancelled as I finally entered the Black Forest and began the serious climbing. I was disappointed not to pass a sign for the Black Forest, a perfect photo opportunity. It wasn’t until I was musing about this over dinner that I realised that I probably had passed a sign for it, but obviously the sign would’ve been in German, therefore I probably passed it happily unaware. Talking of road signs, this is my first experience of cycling in a place where I often have absolutely no idea what the road signs mean. I sign that I assumed was warning of a sharp turn or a service station could quite easily have been warning about the presence of bears, I decided that ignorance was bliss and carried on.

The final 5km were a real slog, the gradient was steep and by this point it was getting very warm. I finally reached the campsite and gladly ended the day there. A very enjoyable first day in Germany, only one more day of cycling to go before I leave dry land, venturing into the unknown waters, the Danube awaits.